Badger Divide - Inverness to Glasgow - 2023
The Badger Divide is described as a ‘Weekender’ with epic mountain passes, lochs, and forested trails. The Fastest Known Time is ~16hrs. Based on our experience to do it in 48 hours would be challenging for even the fittest. We’d given ourselves a more generous 3days. For us, the route provided ample challenge without being as much of a battle as the Highland Trail 550. There are frequent resupply options, especially for those willing to tour on cafe food. With prior planning, there is sufficient accommodation to not carry a tent, though wild camping was part of the fun. Unfortunately, the only bothies on the route were not close to potential night stops, but for those heading north the one on the south side of the Coriayack pass could be a good final stop.
Day 0 - 26km - Inverness to The Shores of Loch Ness
On a fine, dry, Wednesday evening in August we set off from Inverness train station. We ate dinner at Morrisons and stocked up the first section down the Great Glen to Fort Augustus. The first miles through Inverness follow the river and then quickly climb onto a ridge on the northern side of Loch Ness. The plethora of mushroom varieties kept us entertained. In our eagerness to get ahead of schedule, we rode until 9 pm and then found a campsite in the forest for the night. A good start. 
Day 1 - 85km - The Shores of Loch Ness to Loch Na Hearba
Our first full day kicked off with 40km down the side of Loch Ness to Fort Augustus. The trails were smooth and flowing switching between wide single-track and double-track. At 11 we arrived in Fort Augustus, joining its reams of tourists. We took a break for coffee and fuel whilst watching the mostly American tourists. It had been a good start to the trip. As this is the last shop before Killin, at least a day’s ride away, we filled our bags at the Spar.
Immediately out of Fort Augustus MacGregor suffered our first and only mechanical. Luckily it was only minor, his rear derailleur crunched into the back wheel bending both the hanger and the jockey-wheel shield. Some plier-action later it was mended and we started up the Coriayack Pass which is the high point of the trip. We had gone over the pass from the south on the HT550, and this time approached it from the North. I think this is a better approach, it is more rideable from this side. It is a formidable climb and with fully laden bikes took us nearly 2hrs to summit.
Having covered 57km by 3 pm we were glad of the descent to make up ground. Quickly the route turns back into the mountains, climbing another trail this time starting to head towards Rannoch Moor. At 6 pm, after ~8 hours on the bike and 85km, we called it a day on the shores of Loch Na Hearba. The wind initially provided good midge protection, but this soon died and they swarmed us. The fire gave us some relief and then we retreated to the tents.
Day 2 - 120km - Loch Na Hearba to Lochan Lairig Cheile
After a warm night, we emerged to a typically ‘midgey’ beach on a Scottish Loch. Just after the tents were down the heavens opened and there was a torrential rain shower. Stair-rod rain. Life was contemplated as core temperatures dropped, but with the safety net of the Corrour train station only 30km ahead, and the rain easing, we pushed on. Quickly the weather improved and the gravel roads were smooth and fast going. We arrived at Corrour at around 10:30, Mac and I dashed up to the Station Cafe for food and a double espresso.
The trail climbed from the station over the moor, then began a long descent toward Rannoch and we hit tarmac for pretty much the first time on the trip. The route crosses at the Bridge of Gaur, just before Loch Rannoch and begins the climb over to Glen Lyon where there is a fabulous tearoom. Due to the likely closing time of the tea room we elected to cut off a short section by following the HT550 in reverse rather than the official Badger Divide route. The hearty lunch/first dinner at the tearoom justified this.
From the tearoom, there is the longest section of tarmac climbing up to Loch Lyon and over the pass before going down to Killin. We expected the road to become a trail near the summit but it was smooth all the way. At Killin there is a coop where we bought a second dinner and breakfast. At the hotel, we enjoyed a drink and then we pushed on an extra 8km to a small Lochan where we camped.
A strong wind at the campsite kept the midges away. We were by the main road which was not idyllic, and previous campers had definitely left their trace.
Day 3 - 86km - Lochan Lairig Cheile to Glasgow (Bearden)
Saturday’s forecast was rainy, but with an early start, we could at least be going before it got too bad. Jordan therefore woke us at 5:15. I relearned the lesson that the body needs more than just sugar mixed with fat to fuel itself.
The section from Lochearnhead was one of the slower-going sections of the route. There is a long uphill of singletrack and narrow double track. The weather was awful and we were all soaked through. When we reached Loch Lubnaig we were as wet as those who had been swimming. Fortunately, the section after this was relatively flat and the rain eased enough for us to dry ourselves slightly before we pitched up to Macgregor’s Cafe in Aberfoyle.
Aberfoyle is, according to Scott, the gravel paradise of the UK. Based on our experience I’m inclined to agree. The forests between Callander and Aberfoyle were fantastic, as were the paths toward Drymen.
In the last 20km, the route got busier, particularly where we intersected with the West Highland Way. There was a section near Kilearn on the road which was surprising. In general, it felt like the further south on the route the easier it got. The morning’s rain had turned the path into muddy puddles, particularly in the final off-road section in Mugdock Park. We turned up to Bearsden covered head to toe in mud.
Reflections
- Scotland is big, and in places remote. We had fairly good weather but it would be quite easy to get into trouble in bad weather.
- Great route for a 3 or 4-day trip for those who are fit, and enjoy mostly simple cycling with the occasional technical challenge.
- There are enough cafes/shops that you probably only need to have one or two meals and some snacks with you.
The GPX of our route can be found here
